Once i have finished installing each and every one of these items, or yourself. Your mustang should be pushing 775 RWHP, and looking like a true mustang. If you are not able to do all this your self you can always take it somewhere to be done for you. Personally i think it adds to the expiernce and makes the car that much more meaningful if you do it yourself, and also that way you know it has been done right and the way you want it to be done. It is very important to use safety though. Some of this can be dangoures and should not be thought to be completed within a weekend. This mustang build will take months and months of work, i would suggest to do one project at a time so you are not left carless. This will also cost alot of money, so make sure you have the money to finish one project before you start another, other then that you should be as happy and excited as i am to drive this beautiful car. If you have any suggestions on any of the blog posts just leave a comment and i will get back to you.
Thank you,
CJ
Friday, June 8, 2012
New transmission
When you supercharge a car or add more power then it comes with you should look into getting a new transmision, and make sure it can handle the power from your motor, also think about buying a new stronger drive shaft. To install the transmission you will have to jack up your car. Their should be eight bolts connecting it to your enging along with u-joints on either side of your drive shaft, you will pull all the codder pins on both u-joints then pull the pin out. once you have pulled the pin out you can remove the drive shaft from your car. Now you can drop your tranny out once you have inbolted the eight bolts. Their will be tranny fluid let it drain, then their should be a driveline hooked up to your cams. Un-bolt the drive line from the camshart, this will allow your whole tranny asssembly to drop out of your car but before you do that make sure to un bolt your shifter, unless you are putting a new shifter into the car. Once you have done that you can install the new tranny hook everything back up, but dont worry about the tranny fluid to the end. Now that your tranny is back in be sure when you install the new drive shaft to replace the u-joints with the newely required u-joints, or you will have problems with them. Once you have the new drive shaft in connect your shifter, and pour the requirred amount of tranny fluid into the resevoure. After that is done be sure to take it easy for a while untill the tranny fluid has been completely ran throught the system. Once you have everything done you should take your car to a shop so they can tune it for your tranny and engine requirements.
New rear axle
To install a new axle it can be difficult, you will need to first un tighten your lug nuts. Then jack the rear end of your car up, and finishing un-bolting your tires. Once this is done you should get under your car and start to unblot your drive shaft. There should be a U-joint you will take the codder pin out of either side then slide the bolt out of the two u joints, now your drive shaft should drop down, now the drive shaft should be out of your way. Next you should unbolt the rear diff from your axle there should be eight bolts two on each side. Once you have the diff cover off and the fluid drained you should start removing the gears out of the housing as it is draining you can remove your breaks. to do this their should be two mounting bolts on the back side of the break caliper. Remove those two bolts, and then hang the calipers on somthing do not let them hang freely as it is a saftey hazard. You can now take of the actualy roder there should be a hole somewhere on the roder, take the mmounting scre it should fit right in the hole and screw it in, this will seperate the roder from the actuall axle. Once you have this done it is time to move back to the rear diff. their should be eight studs inside the rear diff housing unscrew the studs from the rear axle. You can now completely take off the rear diff. All thats left to take off is the suspension for stock suspension you should unbolt a u bolt around the leaf springs which should allow the rear axle to drop down. Now that you have removed everything you should be able to put the new one in. To do this start off with the suspension. then put the rear diff back on with all the gears and the cover, then put the roters on and calipers and hook the drive shaft up. All you have left to do now is re bolt the wheels back on now when you frist put the new rear axle on drive around your neighborhood to let the new diff fluid adjust to the new power of the axle. This is esential or your diff will blow very quickly.
Gauges
To install gauges you will need to order the gaudge pod, gauges, wiring, and gauge reader modules.
First things first install the gauge pod into the desired spot on the dash, or pillar in our interior. Once you have installed the pod you can start putting your gauges in, after you have this done run all the wires from the gauge into the engine compartment. After you have this complete splice all wires and hook them up to coresponding reader modules. Once each reader is hooked up it is time to insert them into the proper engine compenents. For the air to fuel modual you will plug that into your mass air flow sensor, their should be a sensor in there with a slot for a plug in all you have to do then is plug it in. For the boost gauge you will have to find the correct plug in on your supercharger and insert it usually its where the plug from the computer plugs into also. After that one is done you should plug in your RPM gauge which plugs right into your fuse box, to find where you should read the fuse index on the cover of fuse box. Once they are all hooked up link all the gauges into one power wire and run it to a constant power source. Ground the negative and you should have working gauges.
First things first install the gauge pod into the desired spot on the dash, or pillar in our interior. Once you have installed the pod you can start putting your gauges in, after you have this done run all the wires from the gauge into the engine compartment. After you have this complete splice all wires and hook them up to coresponding reader modules. Once each reader is hooked up it is time to insert them into the proper engine compenents. For the air to fuel modual you will plug that into your mass air flow sensor, their should be a sensor in there with a slot for a plug in all you have to do then is plug it in. For the boost gauge you will have to find the correct plug in on your supercharger and insert it usually its where the plug from the computer plugs into also. After that one is done you should plug in your RPM gauge which plugs right into your fuse box, to find where you should read the fuse index on the cover of fuse box. Once they are all hooked up link all the gauges into one power wire and run it to a constant power source. Ground the negative and you should have working gauges.
Interior
Next in the interior I will install accent lighting. To do this can be easy or difficult depending on how hidden you want them and where you want them. To me the more hidden and difficult it is to do the better it will look. I have chosen to either do a red accent light, or an orange. You can purchase these lights almost anywhere, if you order them off of a specialty website all of the lights should be the right length and come with wiring that is the right length also. now for installation measure all of the lights to mark holes for the brackets, now drill holes one size smaller then the screw. You will now install the brackets, after that is done you will install the actuall light fixture it self to the brackets. Now you can wire all of them together or each section seperate it all depends on your liking. To do this you will want to find a designated spot for your switch or switches, once you have found a spot mount the switch. after that is done you can start running wires, now you will want to hide them and easiest way to do this, is to tear up all of your carpeting and run them under to the switch now you will have your positive and negative also you will have a wire going to a constant power station (cigarette lighter,fuse box, ect)
after this is done you will want ground all of the wires to a good metal spot where it has a good coneection. after that is done you should have accent lighting up your car for your enjoyment.
after this is done you will want ground all of the wires to a good metal spot where it has a good coneection. after that is done you should have accent lighting up your car for your enjoyment.
Interior
First in the interior i will start with the rear seat delete. To do this might be a little difficult i would recomend with taking out your front seats first. This is done by un-bolting the blocks that secure the seat on the rails, you should then unconnect the blocks from the seat. You should now slide the blocks off the rails. If you have power seats, you should un-screw the panel with the seat controlls this is very simple. Now you should be able to pull the seat out of the car. After this is done you will move to the back seats. You will have to open up your trunk to acess the bolts for the top of the back seats, un-bolt both seats their should be 4 or 5 bolts per seat. After that u should be able to remove the back rest part of the back seats next for the bottom unbolt the rails from the floor this may require you to jack up the car and unblot them from the bottom. Once the bolts are out of the rails remove the bottom part of your seats. Then take your rear seat delete kit and follow the instructions, it shouldn't requir any tools, and should come with all the hardware you need. To do this you will take both panels and place them to line up with the holes from the old seats where the bolts went. Now their should be 16 interior pins. the will insert in the old bolt holes. You have now completed the rear seat delete, all you have to do now is replace the front seats. Make sure they are secure, both top and bottom bolts on the blocks, and be sure to put the controll panel back onto your seat.
Body Kit
Installaion of the body kit is important that everything is done right, because if its not you could risk stuff falling off or paint chipping. First things first i highly recomend take it to a body shop so they can match all the paint to your cars specific paint, if you try to do it yourself you might not get the same shade. Now youve had the body kit panted, all you have to do is un-install the stock bumpers hood, and side skirts. When you do this you will notice bolts all over the bumper behind it. Unbolt all of the bolts and keep them together, some are different sizes then others, once you have all the bolts de-attached from the bumper, take all of the stuff on the bumpers off. Such as license plate, and grills. Once you have everything off your bumpers, you can start installing the new body kit. This is farely simple you now put your license plate back onto the bumper and install all the bolts into their correct spots, i recomend you tape off every edge that might be close to other paint or objects so you do not chip or scratch the paint. This is how you will install you body kit depending on what kind it is.
Taillights
To install tail lights is pretty easy, you will need:
-A screwdriver
-Wire splicer
- wire conectors
-electrical tape
To install the Taillights you will have to open your trunk and peel back the fabric in your trunk. Its pretty simple to do their will be three screws in screw those three. now unscrew the bulbs and remove the old tailight. Now for the new LED tailights you should have gotten a special power box and plug in unit. You will splice your positive negative and ground wires to the power box and the old wiring, now connect the proper wires to the matching ones. Once you have them connected correct test them to make sure all is working, then wrap them in electrical tape make sure the positive and negative are not touching eachother. This coud cause a short out and ruin the power box, once they are taped you can take the conectors to furthur the protectione of these wires slip it onto the wire and clamp both ends shut. you can now take the LED strip and plug them into the power box along with the blinker and reverse lights. This should only take about 45 minutes to do both Taillights. Once the lights are in place and the wires are hidden you can now take the new tailights and insert them back into their orignal spot and screw them in. This is how to install the tailights. Now to tint the tail lights you can leave them out before installing them again, you will clean them off with an alcohal based liquid make sure to use a rag so no residue is left behind then mask off all parts of the tailight that you do not want to be tinted, like the reverse light. You are now ready to spray them if possible hang them up somewhere well ventilated. You can now take your tailight tint and hold it about 6 to 10 inches away from the taillights and spray them in an even light coat let them dry for about ten minutes until they get a little tacky and apply a second coat. This makes the tint stick better, from then on you can apply as many coats as needed.
-A screwdriver
-Wire splicer
- wire conectors
-electrical tape
To install the Taillights you will have to open your trunk and peel back the fabric in your trunk. Its pretty simple to do their will be three screws in screw those three. now unscrew the bulbs and remove the old tailight. Now for the new LED tailights you should have gotten a special power box and plug in unit. You will splice your positive negative and ground wires to the power box and the old wiring, now connect the proper wires to the matching ones. Once you have them connected correct test them to make sure all is working, then wrap them in electrical tape make sure the positive and negative are not touching eachother. This coud cause a short out and ruin the power box, once they are taped you can take the conectors to furthur the protectione of these wires slip it onto the wire and clamp both ends shut. you can now take the LED strip and plug them into the power box along with the blinker and reverse lights. This should only take about 45 minutes to do both Taillights. Once the lights are in place and the wires are hidden you can now take the new tailights and insert them back into their orignal spot and screw them in. This is how to install the tailights. Now to tint the tail lights you can leave them out before installing them again, you will clean them off with an alcohal based liquid make sure to use a rag so no residue is left behind then mask off all parts of the tailight that you do not want to be tinted, like the reverse light. You are now ready to spray them if possible hang them up somewhere well ventilated. You can now take your tailight tint and hold it about 6 to 10 inches away from the taillights and spray them in an even light coat let them dry for about ten minutes until they get a little tacky and apply a second coat. This makes the tint stick better, from then on you can apply as many coats as needed.
Headlight Instalation
To install the new head lights you will need:
-Screw driver
-Wire stripers
-electrical tape
-Wire conectors
-Wire harness(should come with HID's)
For the instalation its pretty simple, first you will want to take out the old head lights and assemblies. To do this will open the hood of your car up, their should be two screws holding them down on the top, you will unscrew the two screws. Next on each side their should be two tabs pull the tabs outward away from the headlight assembly, this should leave the headlight assembly free to move. Now un-hook the light fixture from the bulbs, to do this you will just turn them counter clock wise they should just unlock and, un-hook. Next pull the assembly and bulbs out of their resting place. Now time to remove the original wiring, this is the tricky part. You will locate their starting destination, un-hook the plug and remove the old wire harness. You now should have all stock lighting out, you can now take the new wire harness for the HID's and place them into the correct plug, then take the end of the harness and plug them into the ballests for the HID's. After this is done place all of the HID bulbs into the new headlight housing, plug the ballests into the bulb. This is very simple to do, now turn on your lights to make sure they work. Now just as a warning HID's have the tendency to night light up the second you turn your lights on, this is because the ballests have to juice up to power the bulbs. Do not worry they will turn on whether it will take a few seconds or minutes , they will work. HID's can be used as high beams, low beams, and also fog lghts. Many people prefer them for their bright white lighting which reaches a farther distance and illuminates more objects.
-Screw driver
-Wire stripers
-electrical tape
-Wire conectors
-Wire harness(should come with HID's)
For the instalation its pretty simple, first you will want to take out the old head lights and assemblies. To do this will open the hood of your car up, their should be two screws holding them down on the top, you will unscrew the two screws. Next on each side their should be two tabs pull the tabs outward away from the headlight assembly, this should leave the headlight assembly free to move. Now un-hook the light fixture from the bulbs, to do this you will just turn them counter clock wise they should just unlock and, un-hook. Next pull the assembly and bulbs out of their resting place. Now time to remove the original wiring, this is the tricky part. You will locate their starting destination, un-hook the plug and remove the old wire harness. You now should have all stock lighting out, you can now take the new wire harness for the HID's and place them into the correct plug, then take the end of the harness and plug them into the ballests for the HID's. After this is done place all of the HID bulbs into the new headlight housing, plug the ballests into the bulb. This is very simple to do, now turn on your lights to make sure they work. Now just as a warning HID's have the tendency to night light up the second you turn your lights on, this is because the ballests have to juice up to power the bulbs. Do not worry they will turn on whether it will take a few seconds or minutes , they will work. HID's can be used as high beams, low beams, and also fog lghts. Many people prefer them for their bright white lighting which reaches a farther distance and illuminates more objects.
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Electrical
To start off with electronics i will be installing two Sundown audio SA-12's, these are a competition grade sub woofer that are not only loud, but crisp. These subs have been known to shatter windows and make nuts and bolts come loose. The sundown audio SA-12's run at a 600 watt rms, or continuous power. usually you want to match your amplifier with the brand of sub and also the watts of rms the sub runs at. This is provides the sub with a longer lifetime, and matching brands is always important in that every companies rms rating is different.
Now to install these its more time consuming then dificult, first i would recomend laying wires out and figuring out the best way to run/hide them. After you have figured out the easiest way to run and hide the wires, cut them all to the length desired. Once cut to length, you should run and hide all your wires make sure to leave the possitive wire off of the positive battery terminal to avoid shock. For now just apply the negative or ground wire, after that is done you can now install the RCA cables into the back of your radio, there should be a yellow and red AUX plug in, now that all of that is taken care of tap into somewhere that gets a constant power. Run that straight to your amplifier, connect that asap so you do not short it out. You can also connect the rest of the wires. By now you should have mounted your amp in a safe steady spot, and should also fasten the wires down so they will not get pulled out our be in contact with any metal. Once you have this complete you should have speaker wire running from the amp into the subwoofer box, and connect those to the subwoofer. Once this is complete you should turn the bass all the way down on the amp and turn your radio to an appropriate loudness. Tunning the subwoofer will be time consuming depending on your taste, wether you would like it to sound crisp or loud. You should be done with installation, now its time to go show it off to your friends and set some car alarms off.
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| SA-12 This is the matching amp. and its specs: |
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Friday, May 25, 2012
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Cold Air Intake & Tuner
I would like to start this post off with the tuner; The SCT ISTX wireless tuner allows you to do anything imaginable with a tuner, and is built for your year and comes with custom tuning. i will list below the specs of this amazing tuner.
To install the Cold air intake i will first have to remove the front bumper and grill, along with the core support old air intake setup along with a cross bar. Now for the dificult part, install, you will first bend all piping acording to cold air intake plans, and where you would like to place it. some people prefer to leave it turned of at a 45 degree angle. Personaly i would like to get the best for my money, and this is why i will have to tear apart my front bumper, grill, core supportt, and cross bar. To bend it to get an 80 degree down will be alot of work and custom fabrication. Most of it will be mounting and bending everything else comes as a kit. With having it bent down on a 80 degree i can reach a cooler air to gas flow ratio which can save me gas and also horsepower. Along with the cold air intake i will also install the tuner which simply suction cups or sticks to your dashboard, then you plug the cord into your cars port. The tuner should turn on and have a welcome screen; it will give you step by step directions for instalation.
VEHICLE TUNING & PROGRAMMING-Increase your vehicle's performance in minutes
-Works with 1996-2012 Ford Mustangs
-Pre-loaded dyno proven tunes for the most popular vehicles
-Re-calibrates the vehicle using Bluetooth wireless technology
-Ability to set your vehicle’s speed limiter for young drivers
ON-SCREEN VIRTUAL GAUGES (Requires Apple iPod/iPhone/iPad)
-On-screen virtual gauges with adjustable warning/alert lights
-Monitor vehicle engine data/parameters via virtual gauges
-Huge virtual gauges on iPad (9.5” wide X 7.4” tall)
-Adjustable gauge themes & layouts
BUILT-IN PERFORMANCE TESTS
-0-60MPH Test: virtual speedometer & graph with estimated horsepower
-ET/MPH Test: 1/8th mile & 1/4 mile ET/MPH with estimated horsepower
-Top Speed Performance Test
-Braking Performance Test with 60-0MPH ET
READ & CLEAR DIAGNOSTIC CODES
-Reads & clears vehicle diagnostic trouble codes
-Diagnose your vehicle's diagnostic trouble codes
Now onto the cold air intake, this a crucial part in have a moded engine, none the less a engine that will be pushed for its power. Keeping cool helps engines last, this keeps the cyclinder walls and cylinders from expanding to much or if they do expand it shrinks them back to appropriate size. It does more then just that it cools the complete engine and brings cool air into the fuel lines also.This is the cold air intake i will be instaling, specs will be following the picture.
Steeda Black High Velocity Pro-Flow Cold Air Intake Kit for 2005-2009 Mustang GTs.
Steeda's new Cold Air Kit for the S197 produces the greatest power gains of any Cold Air Kit on the market. Testing has shown increases of up to 38 HP and 30 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels with Steeda's Cold Air Kit combined with our Custom SCT Tune.
The big news here is that Steeda has streamlined the airflow in the S197 Mustang to the point that a computer re-flash isn't just an option, it's required! Check out the SCT XCalibrator 3 - the perfect tool for the job with Custom Tunes!
The kit is supplied with a stainless steel air box with built-in velocity stack and a 90mm mass air housing. It mounts in the factory location with the supplied rubber trim to seal it against the hood & fender to keep the hot air out . Our tests showed inlet temps a mere 5 degrees above ambient temperature. The Steeda Lifetime Filter can easily be cleaned and re-oiled, making maintenance a snap. All hardware required for installation is included in the kit.
Get the Kit: Steeda's all new complete Cold Air Intake system replaces everything from the throttle body forward. Now available together for one low price.
To install the Cold air intake i will first have to remove the front bumper and grill, along with the core support old air intake setup along with a cross bar. Now for the dificult part, install, you will first bend all piping acording to cold air intake plans, and where you would like to place it. some people prefer to leave it turned of at a 45 degree angle. Personaly i would like to get the best for my money, and this is why i will have to tear apart my front bumper, grill, core supportt, and cross bar. To bend it to get an 80 degree down will be alot of work and custom fabrication. Most of it will be mounting and bending everything else comes as a kit. With having it bent down on a 80 degree i can reach a cooler air to gas flow ratio which can save me gas and also horsepower. Along with the cold air intake i will also install the tuner which simply suction cups or sticks to your dashboard, then you plug the cord into your cars port. The tuner should turn on and have a welcome screen; it will give you step by step directions for instalation.
VEHICLE TUNING & PROGRAMMING-Increase your vehicle's performance in minutes
-Works with 1996-2012 Ford Mustangs
-Pre-loaded dyno proven tunes for the most popular vehicles
-Re-calibrates the vehicle using Bluetooth wireless technology
-Ability to set your vehicle’s speed limiter for young drivers
ON-SCREEN VIRTUAL GAUGES (Requires Apple iPod/iPhone/iPad)
-On-screen virtual gauges with adjustable warning/alert lights
-Monitor vehicle engine data/parameters via virtual gauges
-Huge virtual gauges on iPad (9.5” wide X 7.4” tall)
-Adjustable gauge themes & layouts
BUILT-IN PERFORMANCE TESTS
-0-60MPH Test: virtual speedometer & graph with estimated horsepower
-ET/MPH Test: 1/8th mile & 1/4 mile ET/MPH with estimated horsepower
-Top Speed Performance Test
-Braking Performance Test with 60-0MPH ET
READ & CLEAR DIAGNOSTIC CODES
-Reads & clears vehicle diagnostic trouble codes
-Diagnose your vehicle's diagnostic trouble codes
Now onto the cold air intake, this a crucial part in have a moded engine, none the less a engine that will be pushed for its power. Keeping cool helps engines last, this keeps the cyclinder walls and cylinders from expanding to much or if they do expand it shrinks them back to appropriate size. It does more then just that it cools the complete engine and brings cool air into the fuel lines also.This is the cold air intake i will be instaling, specs will be following the picture.
Steeda Black High Velocity Pro-Flow Cold Air Intake Kit for 2005-2009 Mustang GTs.Steeda's new Cold Air Kit for the S197 produces the greatest power gains of any Cold Air Kit on the market. Testing has shown increases of up to 38 HP and 30 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels with Steeda's Cold Air Kit combined with our Custom SCT Tune.
The big news here is that Steeda has streamlined the airflow in the S197 Mustang to the point that a computer re-flash isn't just an option, it's required! Check out the SCT XCalibrator 3 - the perfect tool for the job with Custom Tunes!
The kit is supplied with a stainless steel air box with built-in velocity stack and a 90mm mass air housing. It mounts in the factory location with the supplied rubber trim to seal it against the hood & fender to keep the hot air out . Our tests showed inlet temps a mere 5 degrees above ambient temperature. The Steeda Lifetime Filter can easily be cleaned and re-oiled, making maintenance a snap. All hardware required for installation is included in the kit.
Get the Kit: Steeda's all new complete Cold Air Intake system replaces everything from the throttle body forward. Now available together for one low price.
exhaust
After i install the supercharger i will need an exhaust, if you do not install an exhaust after installing aftermarket parts for your engine it could blow. The reasoning behind this aftermarket parts put more pressure on the engine, especially turbo or superchargers. This is because turbos and superchargers produce boost which is pressure to give you more power and speed, if you do not modify other parts on your car it could be too much stress and blow the engine. Depending on how much the supercharger or turbo put out, you might have to buy forged engine, or new pistons. This can cost money but also will help you with power. So back to the real meaning of this blog post, I will be installing a Borla cat back polished chrome exhaust with black tips. Also even an exhaust can add a few horses to your mustang, but by now you shouldn't need much more.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qih5SwoZ1Lw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qih5SwoZ1Lw
Friday, May 18, 2012
T
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Here are some pictures of the supercharger and a dyno run:
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Introduction
This blog is going to about me (CJ) pretty much building from ground up a 2006 ford Mustang GT. The 2006 Mustang GT is a 4.6L V8. I chose to get the mustang GT because it is the V8 which makes it somewhat fast from the factory. The mustang GT comes stock with about 300 rwhp (Rear Wheel Horsepower) which is pretty good (considering a corvette comes with about 400rwhp). My hope with this project is to get the car to be pushing more then 600 rwhp, yes this is going to take some time and alot of money, but money well spent.I plan on making this car different from anyother mustang gt out their. A big part of my life is being different, and finding new things. And what im about to do to this car will make it one of a kind, it will be turning heads all over. With this said i would like to give you an idea on what i'd like to put into this car, so lets get started with a list.
Engine:
-Kenne Bell 775rwhp supercharger kit
-Ford Racing fuel injector EV14 style
-The SCT livewire tuner kit
-Ford Racing Cold air intake kit
-Cooling system
-Basic dress up
Body:
-Fog light delete
-De-badge
-Cervini ram air hood
-Hood pins
-Rear window louver
-Billet grill
-Fenders
-Smoked LED tailights
-Smoke Headlight covers
Wheels:
-Deep dish rims rear and regular front
-11.5 inch wider lowpro's
Electrical:
-New Stereo
-Re-Rout fog lights
-Gauges
Interior:
-Rear seat delete
-Shift nob
-New pedals
-Gauge cluster
-Seats
-Lighting Accent
-Floor mats
Engine:
-Kenne Bell 775rwhp supercharger kit
-Ford Racing fuel injector EV14 style
-The SCT livewire tuner kit
-Ford Racing Cold air intake kit
-Cooling system
-Basic dress up
Body:
-Fog light delete
-De-badge
-Cervini ram air hood
-Hood pins
-Rear window louver
-Billet grill
-Fenders
-Smoked LED tailights
-Smoke Headlight covers
Wheels:
-Deep dish rims rear and regular front
-11.5 inch wider lowpro's
Electrical:
-New Stereo
-Re-Rout fog lights
-Gauges
Interior:
-Rear seat delete
-Shift nob
-New pedals
-Gauge cluster
-Seats
-Lighting Accent
-Floor mats
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